Doll News Summer 2017 - 28

Dress for a Rohmer Doll

designed using a 16-inch doll on a 13-inch leather body
By Sheryl Williams

ne of the joys of sewing for antique dolls is learning from the study of antique doll garments. Not only is
the construction different from contemporary construction techniques, but the cut of the garments is also
fascinating to study and reproduce.
I was fortunate to be introduced to an enchanting, unusual garment from the wardrobe of an antique doll by Leontine
Rohmer. This garment was graciously shared by Michael Canadas and David Robinson from the Carmel Doll Shop.
This one-piece dress consists of an underskirt with an attached ruffle. Five wedge-shaped pieces are sewn together
to form a more shaped ruffle that is attached to the lower edge of the underskirt. Another skirt layer is overlaid
consisting of six pie-shaped panels. As typical of the period, the skirt is slightly longer in the back than the front. The
panels are basted together and attached to the simple sleeveless bodice by means of twill tape at the waistline.
A coordinating unlined jacket sits over the dress bodice. It is constructed with three bodice pattern pieces plus the
sleeves. The unusual design eliminates the bodice side seam, incorporating the side back pieces into the jacket front.
The dress and jacket are trimmed with a woven decorative tape that edges most of the pieces. Mother-of-pearl
buttons grace the skirt panels.
The antique costume was made from a very sheer, lightweight wool. The decorative tape appears to be made from
silk and wool.
Reproducing an antique costume is not only challenging in duplication of the design but also in obtaining suitable
fabric and trims. So many of the fabrics from the last centuries are no longer being manufactured. It was necessary
to find a lightweight substitute for the sheer wool but even more difficult to come up with a substitute for the
decorative tape so generously used for the trim. After a long search, I decided to use a lightweight cotton voile for
the dress with black cotton twill tape for the decorative trim. The woven twill tape provided the slight give needed to
make the curves on the design.
Lightweight wool, challis, silk, voile, lawn, and muslin cotton prints certainly could be utilized for the design. It is
not a difficult pattern to construct but the necessary hand sewing does take time to properly execute. Measurements
from the doll I used are included so that you may make the needed adjustments for your doll.
Always construct a muslin bodice from your pattern as bodies and seam allowances sewn can vary widely. Also measure
your finished skirt length with under garments on your doll before cutting the skirt pieces. The bodice is the important part of the
garment for fitting but the skirt length can also vary.
It is recommended to construct this dress by hand stitching it. You will find the fabrics and trims drape better. Fine 50 weight
thread and small needles will help make your stitching easier.
RST= right sides together
WST= wrong sides together
F=front and B = back
CB= center back
CF= center front
Flat line: baste the underlining and
corresponding main fabric piece together so
that they form a single unit.
Follow seam allowances marked on patterns
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Summer 2017

Supplies:
Fine batiste: 5" x 15"
Sheer muslin, lawn or voile: 1 yard
¼" cotton twill tape: 4 yards
¼" Mother of Pearl buttons: 31

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Doll News Summer 2017